Christmas in Riga and Tallinn: markets and city walks

Why visit at Christmas

In Riga, the scent of mulled wine drifts around Cathedral Square. In Tallinn, illuminated wooden chalets fill Town Hall Square, framed by tall, narrow façades. Christmas in these two Baltic capitals offers something you particularly appreciate in winter: short distances within the historic centre, interesting museums and cafés where you can comfortably spend an hour waiting for your hands to warm up.

Riga is larger, with striking Art Nouveau architecture, broader streets and a central market that deserves a visit in its own right. Tallinn retains a more distinctly medieval appearance, with walls, towers and steep cobbled lanes. Both old towns are UNESCO-listed. If you are comparing Europe's Christmas cities, this pairing stands out more for its setting than for the size of its markets.

Ideally, allow five or six days in total. You can see both in three, but that means a brisk pace and several hours of travel. Snow suits them beautifully in photographs, but it is not guaranteed. Go for the atmosphere, architecture and food, rather than assuming you will find a white Christmas.

How to get there

Flights from Athens and Thessaloniki

For Riga, first check whether there is a direct flight from Athens on your chosen dates. The route appears in airBaltic's schedules, but frequency and winter availability need checking. A direct flight takes around three to three and a half hours. With a connection at a European hub, usually allow five to eight hours in total, depending on the wait.

From Thessaloniki, do not assume there will be a direct winter service to Riga or Tallinn. A flight with one connection is often a practical solution for either city. The same applies to Athens to Tallinn when no direct option is available on your dates. A reasonable total journey time is five to nine hours, excluding longer layovers. Choose a single through ticket so that a delay does not leave your onward flight unprotected.

Look for a multi-city ticket: fly into Riga and out of Tallinn, or vice versa. This avoids returning to your first city simply to reach the airport. From Riga Airport, bus 22 reaches the central area in around half an hour, depending on traffic. Tallinn Airport is close to the city centre, with public transport and taxis available.

Travelling between Riga and Tallinn

The intercity coach is the simplest overland option. Companies such as Lux Express connect the two cities, usually in around four to four and a half hours. Allow extra time to reach the coach station and get to your accommodation on arrival. Tickets often cost around €15 to €45 each way, but festive dates and last-minute bookings can push prices up.

There are also flights between the two capitals, with around fifty minutes in the air. Once airport checks and transfers are factored in, the time saving is limited. A car is not necessary for this trip: it adds parking, possible cross-border drop-off charges and winter driving, without being particularly useful in the old towns.

The Christmas markets

Riga: the market on Doma laukums

Riga's main Christmas market takes place on Doma laukums, Cathedral Square, in the heart of the old town. Wooden stalls, handmade decorations, woollens, candles and hot food make this a market you can easily visit more than once. Come in daylight to browse the goods and return after dusk when the lights come on.

It usually runs from late November to early January. Exact dates, opening hours and musical events change each year. Do not base your plans on old posts, particularly for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. Weekends are busier, so a weekday lunchtime is better for a relaxed browse.

Tallinn: the market on Raekoja plats

In Tallinn, the gathering place is Raekoja plats, Town Hall Square. The market spreads out around the large Christmas tree, with stalls selling crafts, knitwear and food. It is compact and does not require a whole day. The pleasure lies in returning for short stops as your walks through the old town bring you past it again.

It usually runs from late November through December, with the closing date varying each year: it may finish in late December or early January. If you are travelling after Christmas, make a point of confirming the closing date. For a sense of other events, browse these well-known Christmas markets, without assuming they all follow the same calendar.

In both cities, leave room in your suitcase for something small and practical: woollen gloves, wooden decorations or goods from local producers. Check origins and materials before buying. As a rough guide, allow around €12 to €25 per person for food and a hot drink at the market, depending on what you choose.

What to see and do

Riga, from the old town to Art Nouveau

Start in Vecrīga, the old town, with the cathedral, St Peter's Church and Town Hall Square. The House of the Blackheads immediately catches the eye with its ornate façade, though it is worth remembering that the present building is a reconstruction. Continue towards the Three Brothers, the well-known group of historic houses, leaving time to explore the streets in between.

The area around Alberta iela offers a different view of the city. Look up for sculpted faces, floral motifs and elaborate Art Nouveau façades. The Riga Art Nouveau Centre helps connect the architecture with everyday life at the time. Combine the walk with a coffee stop in the surrounding neighbourhood, away from the busiest market crowds.

Riga Central Market, with its famous pavilions incorporating sections of former airship hangars, is a good choice for a cold morning. You will find bread, smoked produce, fish, pickles and local specialities. Check festive opening hours. For another indoor stop, the Latvian National Museum of Art offers a rewarding introduction to the country's art.

Tallinn, city walls and views from Toompea

Tallinn's old town is best explored without constantly checking a map. From Town Hall Square, head towards St Catherine's Passage and the streets around the medieval walls. The cobbles are particularly beautiful in winter, but can also be very slippery. Take your time, especially on steps and in narrow stretches with compacted snow.

Climb Toompea Hill for Alexander Nevsky Cathedral and the Kohtuotsa and Patkuli viewing points. Plan the climb while there is still daylight. For a more contemporary side of the city, continue to Kalamaja and Telliskivi, where former industrial buildings house cultural venues, restaurants and cafés. The maritime museum at Seaplane Harbour is another excellent option, especially with children.

Do not fill your itinerary entirely with outdoor walks. A good winter day includes two main walks and at least one longer indoor stop. If you are considering a different mix of city sightseeing and relaxation, the guide to Christmas in Budapest offers another approach, with thermal baths complementing the markets.

What to eat and drink

In Riga, look for grey peas with bacon, a typical Latvian dish, and pīrāgi, small filled buns often containing bacon and onion. Dark rye bread, smoked fish and soups are staples of the local cuisine. For something sweet, try a dessert made with rye bread, cream and fruit rather than sticking to the international cakes and pastries in cafés.

In Tallinn, Christmas meals often include pork, sauerkraut, potatoes and verivorst, a blood sausage. If that is not to your taste, there are plenty of alternatives, from fish to contemporary Estonian cooking. Piparkoogid, fragrant spiced biscuits, go well with coffee and are easy to take home as a small gift.

The markets serve mulled wine and usually non-alcoholic alternatives. In Latvia, Riga Black Balsam is the well-known bitter herbal spirit, also used in hot drinks. Budget around €18 to €35 per person for a simple sit-down restaurant meal, and more for a refined dining experience. Book ahead for evenings over the festive period.

A 3-day itinerary

The following is a compact itinerary covering three full days, arriving in Riga the evening before and leaving Tallinn after the third day. If your three days also include flights from Greece, choose one city. Otherwise, you will spend a disproportionate amount of your trip travelling.

Day 1

Spend the morning in old Riga: Town Hall Square, the House of the Blackheads, St Peter's and the lanes leading towards the cathedral. Stop for a Latvian lunch, then continue with a museum of your choice or the area around Alberta iela. Do not attempt both if the weather makes walking difficult.

Devote the afternoon to the market on Doma laukums. Return to your accommodation for a short rest before dinner, especially if you are travelling with children. There is no need to venture far on your first evening: another short stroll through the illuminated lanes is a lovely way to end the day.

Day 2

Have an early breakfast and take a morning coach to Tallinn. The journey will take up a large part of the day, so keep the afternoon relaxed. After arriving and settling in, take your first walk through the lower old town and Town Hall Square. Save the climbs and viewpoints for the following day.

Eat near the historic centre and stop at the Christmas market for a hot drink. If you have more days available, add an extra night in Riga at this point and visit the Central Market at leisure before continuing to Estonia.

Day 3

Start with Toompea and its viewpoints while there is daylight. Walk down towards St Catherine's Passage, then stop for lunch. In the afternoon, choose Telliskivi for coffee and a contemporary atmosphere, or Seaplane Harbour for a museum visit. Finish with one last stop at the market, provided it is open on your dates.

For a trip of strictly three days, a single base is more relaxing. You can compare the pace of this combination with a similar three-day Christmas break in Prague, which does not involve travelling between two capitals.

Where to stay

In Riga, Vecrīga suits those who want the market, sights and restaurants within walking distance. Check reviews for noise, access with luggage and lift availability. Centrs and the Art Nouveau district offer more of a feel for everyday city life, with slightly longer distances to cover. The guide to where to stay in Riga provides a more detailed comparison of neighbourhoods.

In Tallinn, the old town is practical for a short visit, while Rotermann suits those who prefer a more modern setting close to the historic centre. Kalamaja and Telliskivi are good for cafés and evenings out, but check the exact location of your accommodation. See the guide to where to stay in Tallinn before deciding.

The following options are in Riga. Confirm the current name, address, facilities and terms of each listing before paying, as these can change.

• Hotel Gutenbergs: Suits those who want a base in the old town, close to the cathedral and Christmas market. Check availability on Booking
• Hotel Justus: An option for those who prefer historic surroundings and easy walks around Vecrīga. Check availability on Booking
• Ainavas Boutique Hotel: Worth considering for a stay in old Riga, after checking its current operating status and listing. Check availability on Booking
• Old Riga Palace: Convenient for access to the old town and a relatively short distance from the Central Market. Check availability on Booking
• Astor Riga: Suits those looking for a base on the edge of the old town, near the central parks. Check availability on Booking
• AC Hotel Riga: Suits those who prefer a modern hotel in the Art Nouveau district rather than the narrow streets of Vecrīga. Check availability on Booking
• Elizabetes Apartments: Suits those looking for an apartment rather than a traditional hotel room. Check availability on Booking
• Stay In Art Nouveau District: Aimed at travellers who want to focus on the Art Nouveau neighbourhood. Check availability on Booking
• Elegant Park Studio near Old Town: An option to compare if you prefer a studio, checking the actual distance from the places you want to visit. Check availability on Booking
• Miera Art Apartment: Suits those considering an apartment with self check-in, after first confirming the access arrangements. Check availability on Booking

Weather in December

Typical December temperatures in Riga are around minus four to plus two degrees Celsius. In Tallinn, a rough range is minus five to plus two. These are not limits: cold spells can bring much lower temperatures. Damp conditions and wind often make it feel colder.

Be prepared for possible snow, sleet, rain or icy pavements. You will need waterproof footwear with good grip, a thermal base layer, a warm mid-layer and a windproof jacket. A hat, scarf and gloves are not optional extras. Daylight around the winter solstice lasts roughly six to seven hours, so save viewpoints and longer walks for the morning.

Practical tips

• Documents: Latvia and Estonia are both in the EU and the Schengen Area; travel with a valid passport or an accepted Greek identity card, checking current requirements before departure.
• Money: Both countries use the euro and cards are widely accepted, though a little cash is useful at market stalls.
• Opening hours: Check museums, markets and restaurants individually for Christmas opening hours rather than relying on their normal weekly schedules.
• Public transport: Buy and validate tickets according to local rules; free travel for certain Tallinn residents does not mean free travel for visitors.
• Mobile phones: European roaming rules apply, subject to your provider's fair-use policy, while a power bank is useful in the cold.
• Bookings: Choose flexible terms and leave a buffer between intercity travel and your flight home.

Frequently asked questions

Which city is better for Christmas, Riga or Tallinn?

Tallinn is a better fit if you want a compact medieval centre. Riga offers a wider variety of architecture and more varied urban walks. For a first short visit, let flight options be the main deciding factor.

Are three days enough for both cities?

They are enough only for a quick introduction, provided you have three full days. Five or six days allow more rewarding visits and make you less dependent on the weather.

Is snow guaranteed?

No. December can bring snow, but also rain or periods of thaw. Check the forecast shortly before travelling and prepare above all for damp and slippery conditions.

Are the markets open after Christmas?

Riga's market usually continues until early January. Tallinn's closing date varies each year, so confirm it before booking a New Year trip.

Is this a suitable trip for children?

Yes, with short outdoor walks, frequent stops somewhere warm and centrally located accommodation. Snow and cobbled streets make using a pushchair harder, while the journey between cities requires patience.

Do I need to hire a car?

Not for visiting the two city centres. Walking, public transport and intercity coaches cover the essentials, without the stress of parking and driving on potentially icy roads.