Where to stay in Astypalaia: The best areas and 18 accommodations

Astypalaia is the westernmost island of the Dodecanese, shaped like a butterfly, with a Chora crowned by a Venetian castle, making it feel more like a Cycladic island than a Dodecanesian one. The choice of accommodation area matters, as the island is essentially divided into two large parts connected by a narrow isthmus.

Chora and Pera Gialos attract the most activity and services, Livadi is the greenest and most family-friendly option with a beach within the settlement, while Maltezana in the eastern part of the island offers quieter accommodation near less crowded beaches.

In this article, you will find a detailed breakdown of the four areas, their advantages and disadvantages, as well as specific accommodation suggestions to help you organise your stay on the island.

What to see and do in Astypalaia

Astypalaia is located between the Cyclades and the Dodecanese, which is clearly visible in the architecture of Chora, with its white cubic houses resembling Amorgos more than Kos or Rhodes. The island's shape is unique, with two large land masses connected by a very narrow isthmus in the Analipsi area, which has earned it the nickname “butterfly of the Aegean”. The total area is approximately 97 square kilometres, with the eastern part being more barren and sparsely populated compared to the western.

Access to the island is mainly by ferry from Piraeus, with the journey usually lasting around nine to ten hours depending on the route and intermediate ports such as Paros and Naxos. There is also a small airport on the island, with flights from Athens lasting approximately fifty minutes, an alternative that saves a lot of time, especially for short holidays. During the summer months, some routes also connect Astypalaia with neighbouring Dodecanese and Cycladic islands, although these are not as frequent as on more central islands.

Chora is built amphitheatrically beneath the Venetian castle of the Querini, a family that ruled the island from the thirteenth century for several centuries. Inside the castle walls are two churches, Panagia tou Kastrou and Agios Georgios, while around it spread the characteristic white houses with wooden balconies, known as 'arsanades' or 'foukades', often decorated with colourful wooden railings. A stroll through the narrow streets of Chora in the evening, with the illuminated castle as a backdrop, is one of the island's most iconic images.

Just outside Chora and in other parts of the island, traditional windmills dominate, most of which have now ceased to operate but remain an emblematic feature of the landscape, especially the row of windmills above Pera Gialos, one of the most photographed spots on the island. Some have been restored and now function as accommodation, offering the opportunity to stay within a piece of local history.

Astypalaia's beaches are divided between the western and eastern parts of the island. Kaminakia, to the south, is considered one of the best beaches, with pebbles and turquoise waters, accessible via a dirt road or by a small boat in summer. Vathy, in the eastern part, is a picturesque cove with a few houses and a taverna, ideal for those seeking true tranquillity. Livadi has the most easily accessible organised beach, while Agios Konstantinos and Pounta offer quieter alternatives near Maltezana.

Regarding food, Astypalaia is known for its local goat cheese, fish soup, and seafood pasta, as well as its honey, thanks to the island's vegetation which is poor in cultivation but rich in aromatic plants. In Pera Gialos and Chora, you'll find most tavernas, while in Maltezana there are simpler eateries serving fish from local fishermen.

In Maltezana, also known as Analipsi, it's worth seeing the mosaic floors of a 5th-century early Christian basilica, as well as Negri Cave, a cave with stalactites near the sea. The area also has some of the greenest spots on the island, with small gardens and vineyards around the houses.

The distance from Chora to Pera Gialos is only about one kilometre, to Livadi around two kilometres, while Maltezana is approximately nine kilometres from Chora, on the road towards the eastern part of the island. Kaminakia is about ten kilometres south, on a route that requires caution due to the dirt road in the final section.

Seasonality in Astypalaia is milder compared to more popular islands, but in July and August, demand for accommodation increases significantly, especially after the island's television exposure in recent years. June and September offer a better combination of a quiet environment and warm weather, while in winter, island life is mainly limited to Chora and Pera Gialos.

The best areas to stay in Astypalaia

Chora

Astypalaia's Chora is built amphitheatrically beneath the Querini castle, with narrow alleys, white houses, and views out to sea. It is the area with the highest concentration of shops, cafés, and restaurants on the island.

A good base for those who want evening strolls and easy access to services, with Pera Gialos and the port just a few minutes' walk away.

Advantages:

• Impressive architecture and castle views
• Many restaurants, cafés, and shops
• Close to Pera Gialos and the port

Disadvantages:

• Narrow streets are difficult for luggage
• No direct access to a beach

Recommended accommodations:

1. Tholaria Boutique Hotel
A small boutique accommodation with traditional aesthetics, a few minutes from the main square of Chora.

• Average cost: approximately 130€ per night

2. Studios Anemomilos
Studios near the windmills of Chora, with a simple layout and good castle views.

• Average cost: approximately 95€ per night

3. Kilindra Studios with Sea views
Suites with sea views and a pool, among the most popular accommodations in Chora for couples.

• Average cost: approximately 175€ per night

4. Traditional Chora House
A traditional house in the heart of Chora, with stone elements and authentic character.

• Average cost: approximately 110€ per night

5. Tholos Deluxe House
An independent house with private space, suitable for families who want more comfort.

• Average cost: approximately 150€ per night

Pera Gialos

Pera Gialos is Astypalaia's port, where ferries from Piraeus arrive, and is a stone's throw from Chora. It has its own small beach and several tavernas along the waterfront.

It is a practical choice for those who want to combine easy access to the port with proximity to the lively Chora.

Advantages:

• Very close to the port, ideal for arrival or departure
• Small beach within the settlement
• A few minutes' walk from Chora

Disadvantages:

• A busier spot when a ferry arrives
• The beach is not among the best on the island

Recommended accommodations:

6. Maganas Hotel
A hotel near the port, with simple rooms and good ratings for its location.

• Average cost: approximately 90€ per night

7. Karabo Hotel
Accommodation with views of Pera Gialos port, suitable for those catching an early ferry.

• Average cost: approximately 100€ per night

8. Melenio Studios
Studios a few metres from Pera Gialos beach, with simple amenities and a good price.

• Average cost: approximately 85€ per night

9. Esperis
Rooms with views of the port and windmills, close to the tavernas of Pera Gialos.

• Average cost: approximately 95€ per night

10. Belvedere Studios
Studios in a quiet location above the port, with panoramic views of Pera Gialos.

• Average cost: approximately 105€ per night

Livadi

Livadi is one of the greenest areas of the island, with gardens, vineyards, and a large shingle beach within the settlement. It is located approximately two kilometres from Chora, easily accessible on foot or by car.

It is a popular choice for families, thanks to its large beach and the reasonable prices of most accommodations in the area.

Advantages:

• Large organised beach within the settlement
• Green surroundings with gardens and vineyards
• Good choice for families

Disadvantages:

• About 2 km from Chora, requires transport in the evening
• Less picturesque than Chora

Recommended accommodations:

11. Anixi
Apartments near Livadi beach, suitable for families with children.

• Average cost: approximately 100€ per night

12. Aphrodite Studios
Studios with a garden in Livadi, a few minutes' walk from the beach.

• Average cost: approximately 90€ per night

13. Anassa Boutique Hotel
A boutique accommodation with a pool in Livadi, one of the most comprehensive accommodation options in the area.

• Average cost: approximately 160€ per night

14. Vithos Seaside Aparthotel
Apartments almost right on Livadi beach, with direct access to the sea.

• Average cost: approximately 135€ per night

15. Chrysalis Boutique Adults Only
Adults-only accommodation with a pool, ideal for couples seeking a quiet holiday.

• Average cost: approximately 145€ per night

Maltezana

Maltezana, also known as Analipsi, is located in the eastern part of the island, approximately nine kilometres from Chora. It is a greener and quieter area, with fish tavernas in the small harbour and nearby less crowded beaches.

A good base for those who want to get away from the hustle and bustle of Chora and have a car available for their transport needs.

Advantages:

• Quiet atmosphere, away from the crowds of Chora
• Close to less frequented beaches
• Interesting sights such as the early Christian mosaics

Disadvantages:

• About 9 km from Chora, a car is needed
• Fewer dining and entertainment options

Recommended accommodations:

16. Astypalaia Hotel Palace
A hotel with a pool near Maltezana, with spacious rooms and good ratings for families.

• Average cost: approximately 120€ per night

17. Maltezana Blue Lagoon
Rooms near the sea in Maltezana, with a simple layout and a quiet environment.

• Average cost: approximately 95€ per night

18. Poseidon Studios
Studios a few metres from the small harbour of Maltezana, suitable for couples seeking tranquillity.

• Average cost: approximately 85€ per night

Practical tips for your stay

• Book your ferry or flight early. Routes to Astypalaia are limited, especially in July and August, so tickets sell out quickly.
• Rent a car or scooter. The island has two large parts connected by a narrow isthmus, and the distances to Maltezana or Kaminakia are longer than they appear on the map.
• Visit the castle in the afternoon. A stroll along the Querini walls with the sunset as a backdrop is one of the best experiences on the island.
• Go to Kaminakia early in the morning. The dirt access road is more comfortable with less traffic, and the beach fills up towards midday.
• Try the local honey and goat cheese. These are among the island's most characteristic products and can be found in small grocery shops in Chora.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get to Astypalaia?

By ferry from Piraeus, a journey of approximately nine to ten hours, or by plane from Athens, lasting around fifty minutes.

Do I need a car in Astypalaia?

It is recommended, especially if you want to visit Maltezana or beaches like Kaminakia, which are quite far from Chora.

Which is the best area for families?

Livadi, thanks to its large organised beach and its close proximity to Chora.

Why is Astypalaia called the butterfly of the Aegean?

Due to its shape, with two large land masses joined by a very narrow isthmus in the Analipsi area.

How far is Chora from the port?

Pera Gialos, where the port is located, is about one kilometre from Chora, a distance easily covered on foot.

What is the best time of year to visit?

June and September offer good weather with fewer crowds, while July and August have higher demand for accommodation.

Conclusion

Astypalaia combines Cycladic aesthetics with Dodecanesian geography, with its Chora and castle serving as the central point of reference for every visit. Pera Gialos offers convenience due to its port, Livadi is ideal for families, and Maltezana provides a quieter alternative in the eastern part of the island.

Whichever area you choose, book your accommodation and transport tickets early, as accommodation options on the island are limited compared to the increasing demand in recent years.

Also see our guides on where to stay in Ikaria and where to stay in Alykes, Zakynthos.