Where to stay in Donoussa: The best areas and 15 accommodations

Donoussa is the most remote of the Small Cyclades islands, with few permanent residents and beaches that remain relatively unknown to the wider public. It doesn't have large hotels, so accommodation is primarily in small rooms and studios managed by local families.

The island has four main settlements: Stavros or Kambos, which is the port and main centre, Mersini, Haravgi (or Halará), and Kalotaritissa. Your choice of village will determine how easily you can reach beaches, tavernas, and the port.

In this guide, you will find the main accommodation areas, with their pros and cons, as well as specific accommodation suggestions with indicative prices to help you plan your trip.

What to see and do in Donoussa

Donoussa administratively belongs to the Municipality of Naxos and the Small Cyclades and is located approximately 15 nautical miles northeast of Naxos, in the open Aegean Sea. Its area is small, about 13.5 square kilometres, with a population not exceeding 170 permanent residents. The island did not have grid electricity until the late 1990s, which partly explains the slow pace of tourist development compared to neighbouring islands like Koufonisia.

Access is exclusively by ferry. From Piraeus, the journey takes approximately 5 to 7 hours, depending on the route and the vessel, while from Naxos, the crossing takes about 1 hour with the local ferry Express Skopelitis, which connects the Small Cyclades daily. There is no airport on the island, so the most common route is a flight to Naxos or Athens, followed by a ferry. The port is in Stavros, where all routes arrive.

The island's main beach is Kedros, with fine sand and shade from cedar trees, also known for being unofficially clothing-optional in part. Livadi beach, near Stavros, is more organised with umbrellas and a taverna. More remote are Kalotaritissa to the north, accessible by footpath or by the boat that offers daily trips in summer, and Fykió, a small pebble beach near Mersini. Most beaches do not have organised facilities, so it's customary to bring your own water and food.

The island's cuisine is based on local products such as goat meat, fresh fish, and handmade pasta. In Stavros, there are a few but notable tavernas, while in Mersini and Haravgi, options are more limited. Many accommodations do not have a restaurant, so you usually eat at the port's establishments or cook for yourself, as most rooms have kitchens.

Seasonality in Donoussa is more pronounced than on larger islands. From June to early September, all accommodations are open and ferry services are more frequent, while in July and August, visitor numbers significantly increase, though not reaching the levels of other Cycladic islands. In early spring and late autumn, many accommodations and restaurants are closed, and in winter, the island operates almost exclusively with its permanent residents, and ferry services are significantly reduced due to weather conditions.

The population of Donoussa has traditionally been involved in livestock farming and fishing, activities that continue to largely define the island's daily life. There are no large entertainment infrastructures or organised nightlife, which is a conscious choice both for residents and visitors seeking a destination away from mass tourism. The island's isolation, while making daily supply somewhat difficult, is also the reason it remains so untouched.

Distances within the island are small, which helps those without their own transport. From Stavros to Mersini, the distance is approximately 3 km, while to Haravgi and Kedros beach, it is 2 km, routes that can be easily covered on foot at a leisurely pace or by the island's taxi during warmer hours. Kalotaritissa is the most remote, about 7 km from Stavros via a dirt road.

It is worth noting that Donoussa does not have a bank or a permanently operating pharmacy, only a rural medical practice, so those with ongoing medication needs should obtain them before arriving. This simplicity, however, is part of the island's charm for many travellers who return year after year seeking precisely this disconnection.

The best areas to stay in Donoussa

Stavros (Kambos)

Stavros is the natural centre of Donoussa, where the port, most shops, and tavernas are located. It is the most convenient base for those without a car, as everything is within a few minutes' walk.

Advantages:

• Direct access to the port and ferry services
• More dining and shopping options
• Close to Livadi beach

Disadvantages:

• Busier in August compared to other villages
• Less quiet due to the port
• More remote beaches require transport

Recommended accommodations:

1. Mikres Cyclades Donoussa
A complex of apartments and studios a few metres from the coast, with views of Naxos. Suitable for couples and families who want self-catering with a kitchen.

• Average cost: approximately €90 per night

2. Restía
Eleven rooms opposite the sea, with a simple but well-maintained layout. Located within walking distance from the port.

• Average cost: approximately €75 per night

3. Camvillia Donoussa Village Suites
Suites with private balconies and village or sea views, designed with Cycladic aesthetics. They feature air conditioning and a kitchenette.

• Average cost: approximately €100 per night

4. Agave Donousa Suites
Small accommodation with a few suites, in a quiet part of Stavros. The family managing it offers suggestions for beaches and footpaths.

• Average cost: approximately €85 per night

5. Firoa Studios
Studios with a simple layout and terrace, near the centre of the settlement. A good choice for travellers on a limited budget.

• Average cost: approximately €65 per night

6. Vasilios Luxury Apartments
Apartments with more modern decor and full kitchen facilities, a short distance from Livadi beach.

• Average cost: approximately €95 per night

Mersini

Mersini is built on a hillside overlooking the Aegean and retains its traditional Cycladic form, with white houses and narrow alleyways. It is suitable for those who desire peace and quiet and don't mind the short distance from the port.

Advantages:

• Very quiet environment, away from the port's bustle
• Panoramic views of the Aegean
• Close to Fykió beach

Disadvantages:

• Requires transport to the port and other beaches
• Fewer dining options in the evening
• Walking from Stavros involves an uphill climb

Recommended accommodations:

7. Myrsini Apartments
Apartments with Aegean views, in a traditional village building. They feature a kitchen and a terrace suitable for evening dining.

• Average cost: approximately €80 per night

8. Althea Studios
Small studios with simple but clean accommodation, in a quiet part of Mersini. Suitable for couples seeking tranquillity.

• Average cost: approximately €70 per night

9. Koukida House
A traditional house converted into accommodation, with a garden and sea views. A good choice for families.

• Average cost: approximately €90 per night

Haravgi (or Halará)

Haravgi is located near the island's most popular beach, Kedros, and offers a more relaxed alternative to Stavros. It's a good choice for those who want daily swimming without extensive travel.

Advantages:

• Close to Kedros beach with fine sand
• More affordable accommodation prices
• Quiet atmosphere

Disadvantages:

• Few shops and restaurants
• Requires transport to the port
• Limited accommodation availability

Recommended accommodations:

10. Phisis Nature Retreat
Accommodation with a simple, natural aesthetic, near Kedros beach. Suitable for those who want to connect with nature and enjoy minimal luxury.

• Average cost: approximately €75 per night

11. Astrofegia
Small accommodation with few rooms, known for its views of the starry night sky due to the absence of light pollution.

• Average cost: approximately €70 per night

12. Xerolithia Guesthouse
A guesthouse built with stone, in a quiet location near the footpaths to Kedros. It features a garden and a breakfast area.

• Average cost: approximately €78 per night

Kalotaritissa

Kalotaritissa is the most remote settlement on Donoussa, accessible by hiking trail or by boat in summer. It's a choice for travellers seeking true tranquillity and who don't mind limited access to services.

Advantages:

• Absolute peace and isolation
• Beach with clear waters and few crowds
• Unique experience for nature lovers

Disadvantages:

• Limited access, mainly by boat or hiking
• Very few dining options
• Not a suitable base if you want to visit many parts of the island

Recommended accommodations:

13. Ammos Studios
Studios right by the coast, offering simple accommodation and a quiet environment. Suitable for those who want to stay away from the port's bustle.

• Average cost: approximately €80 per night

Practical tips for your stay

• Book your ferry tickets early. Ferry services to Donoussa are limited, especially outside of summer, so it's advisable to book tickets along with your accommodation in advance.
• Bring cash with you. There is no bank on the island and ATMs are limited, so it's a good idea to have enough cash for your stay.
• Plan your meals. Many accommodations do not have a restaurant and tavernas are few, so if you are staying in a more remote area, it's advisable to bring basic food supplies with you.
• Use the boat for Kalotaritissa. In summer, a daily boat service operates from Stavros to Kalotaritissa, which is easier than hiking in the heat.
• Go to Kedros early in August. The island's most popular beach fills up quickly in August, so if you want a quiet spot, go before 11 am.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get to Donoussa?

Only by ferry, either directly from Piraeus in 5 to 7 hours, or via Naxos with the local boat in approximately 1 hour.

Is there an airport in Donoussa?

No. The nearest airport is in Naxos, from where you continue by ferry.

What is the best time to visit?

June to early September, when all accommodations are open and ferry services are more frequent.

Do I need a car in Donoussa?

Not necessarily, as distances are small. Many people get around on foot, by taxi, or by the summer boat service for the more remote beaches.

Which beach is considered the best on the island?

Kedros, with fine sand and shade from trees, is Donoussa's most popular beach.

Are accommodations open in winter?

Most close from late autumn until spring, so it's advisable to confirm availability before travelling outside of summer.

The conclusion

Donoussa is a choice for those who want to avoid the crowds of the larger Cycladic islands and stay on an island with a slow pace of life. The choice of accommodation village mainly depends on whether you want easy access to services or greater tranquillity.

Whichever location you choose, make sure to organise your ferry routes in advance and have realistic expectations for the infrastructure, as simplicity is part of the island's charm.

Also see our guides on where to stay in Kalogria and where to stay in Kimolos.